Traditional fare, timeless setting

February 2, 2002


"No one will ever accuse the Jersey Shore of being short on Italian restaurants. From pizzerias to five-star, they're everywhere and generally all good. Some of them stand out though, and Villa Amalfi in Toms River just shines.

It's apparent from the time you walk through the door. It's not pretentious, but I'd feel uncomfortable here in jeans and a T-shirt.

We were immediately struck by the whiteness of the tablecloths, the brilliance of the stemware and the contrasting effect of salmon colored napkins. Such a refreshing change from forest green I see so often. The service was prompt and courteous, and complementary bruscetta and hot bread appeared quickly while we studied the menu.

The extensive yet well-explained wine list leans heavily to Italian vintages. If the wines seem pricey, it's because they are better than most restaurants can offer. Don't be afraid of the less expensive house wines though. They're excellent.

Janet and I split an appetizer and the lobster bisque. The Portobello Ripieno, stuffed with lump crabmeat and polenta was superb and large enough to share. The bisque was simply a cut above. Some chefs compensate for mediocre bisque with a healthy dose of sherry, but this one needs no props. With just a hint of sherry, it was exquisite, and worth the trip here by itself.

We skipped the salads tonight, and went right for the main courses. Carlo and Andre claim roots in Campania, but their offerings are more of a harmony of all that is good in Italian cuisine, rather than a confinement to one region. Example: Janet's Fettuccini Bolognese Mascarpone combined a very delicate pasta that put me in mind of Calabria with the wonderful meat, tomato, vegetable and cream sauce of Bologna, and the triple cream Mascarpone cheese of Lombardy. A symphony!

My Chicken Portafoglio was a breast of free-range chicken stuffed with Swiss cheese, prosciutto and roasted peppers. It was lightly sauteed and then served with a light pink cream sauce and wild mushrooms. That's not Campania! More like Val d'Aosta. If it had been Fontina cheese instead of Swiss, there'd have been no doubt. Absolutely delicious, and yet not overly filling.

If you're having trouble visualizing this entree, think of the best Cordon Bleu you've ever had, and then factor in that it doesn't even come close to Villa Amalfi's Portofoglio. Is that plain enough?

Desserts were commercially prepared, but uniquely presented on a rolling dessert tree. Much nicer than the usual oversized tray balanced by the stooping waitress. Of course we ordered one, but since it was not made here, we'll just say it was very good, and leave it at that. Coffee and out the door for a very reasonable price, especially considering the type of meal you'll find here.

Overall, Villa Amalfi stands on a much higher ground than your corner mom and pop Italian restaurant, as good as they usually are. And don't expect pizza or calzone and a TV over the bar. This is high-end Italian Dining with a capital "D" at its finest, with the waitstaff in tuxedos, warm maple furniture and a grape leaf motif carried from wrought iron wall sconces to stained glass room dividers. The prices are quite reasonable, and the decor, the service and especially the menu at Villa Amalfi made this one of the nicer evenings I've had in a long time."